Hey.
Ducky!
Sorry I haven't been around, I've been real busy since getting back from Texas.
Anyways,
I don't see any real glass damage from your bow stop, so I'd say just give the damaged areas a feather edge and fill them with EverGlass, then refinish. I prefer to use Ad-Tech #17, but most people have trouble finding it.
On the molding, underneath it you will find the hull seam. If you are going to cap it then that's a whole different subject, but if you are just changing molding styles, and it doesn't look like swiss cheese under the existing stuff, you can just fill each hole with a little shot of 3M 5200 fast cure, let it set up and put your new stuff on.
there are a few of us that dont say anything due to all the BS but do KNOW OUR SHIT ask Ducky
Well, FOURQ, if I ask a question you can bet I am serious and want a NO BS answer. If I wanted BS I'd go sit in a bar and those days are long over.SO SPEAK UP SON!!
Sorry I haven't been around, I've been real busy since getting back from Texas.
Anyways,
I don't see any real glass damage from your bow stop, so I'd say just give the damaged areas a feather edge and fill them with EverGlass, then refinish. I prefer to use Ad-Tech #17, but most people have trouble finding it.
On the molding, underneath it you will find the hull seam. If you are going to cap it then that's a whole different subject, but if you are just changing molding styles, and it doesn't look like swiss cheese under the existing stuff, you can just fill each hole with a little shot of 3M 5200 fast cure, let it set up and put your new stuff on.
Glad you're back. Some of us are serious about getting the job done right. I think I'll pull the rub rail and see what's under it. I'll take a photo or two and post them for suggestions. I just hate that cheap looking rub rail.
Here's a better shot of the bow glass damage:
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/bow_hook_damage_02.jpg
When you look from the inside, this area is very thin.
Thanks,
Greg
It's up to you, but I really don't think it's that bad. If you are worried about the thickness, you could grind it a little and add a couple layers of mat (small strips, x length x 1/2" wide or so) to bring it back to height but it's probably not as thin as you think it is. You definitely need to pull that bow eye and do some fixing right there. If there isn't a piece of wood right there on the inside, you should add some glass to the inside and either way make an aluminum backing plate or something to keep it from ripping out later.....
It's up to you, but I really don't think it's that bad. If you are worried about the thickness, you could grind it a little and add a couple layers of mat (small strips, x length x 1/2" wide or so) to bring it back to height but it's probably not as thin as you think it is. You definitely need to pull that bow eye and do some fixing right there. If there isn't a piece of wood right there on the inside, you should add some glass to the inside and either way make an aluminum backing plate or something to keep it from ripping out later.....
Thanks DUCKY. I am going to pull that bow eye out and put something new in there. I'll fill those eye holes and start over. I was thinking about doing some glass work on the inside. I have both mat and fabric. I've got some 1/4" aluminum plate here that I can glass in when I do the inside work. I'm not a very big person and it's still very cramped in there and with our weather changing it's getting hot early.
Should I do the inside first?
Thanks for your help.
Greg
Put some tape over the holes (outside) and laminate the inside first. If you are trying gain some thickness, try to get a piece of bi-directional like 1708 for the inside repair. A piece of 2 or 3 oz mat and a layer of 1708 will add more than enough thickness for your piece of mind. On the aluminum thing, don't laminate it to the boat. Just make yourself a nice backing plate. If you don't have a shop you can get some scraps from, PM me your address and I'll mail you a piece of bi-directional.
Put some tape over the holes (outside) and laminate the inside first. If you are trying gain some thickness, try to get a piece of bi-directional like 1708 for the inside repair. A piece of 2 or 3 oz mat and a layer of 1708 will add more than enough thickness for your piece of mind. On the aluminum thing, don't laminate it to the boat. Just make yourself a nice backing plate. If you don't have a shop you can get some scraps from, PM me your address and I'll mail you a piece of bi-directional.
Thanks DUCKY, I've had a couple of rolls of mat and cloth hanging around in one of the sheds for YEARS!! Never got rid of it and I don't know why, so now I have a use for it again. Funny how sometimes being a pack-rat pays off later on. I've often cussed having it because every once in a while something would catch on it and strands would go floating around. I may even have some glass rope in there.
:idea: Well, FOURQ, if I ask a question you can bet I am serious and want a NO BS answer. If I wanted BS I'd go sit in a bar and those days are long over.
ya I know but you did ask for " Ducky" so I thought I would let my good friend Scott answer the question that was asked of him
:idea:
ya I know but you did ask for " Ducky" so I thought I would let my good friend Scott answer the question that was asked of him
Well from now on I'll just post a topic and ask the questions.
Well, there's a long story behind this simple repair but I'm sure you aren't all that interested, so here are the photos of before and after...
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/bow_hook_damage_01.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/Bow_Hook_Repair.jpg
I got some funny shadows in the photo but I assure you that the bow is straight. Note how close the deck and the hull line up. I pulled the rub rail just so I could do a better half-assed job on the glass work and found that there was next to no gap and only a few spots where there was any overhang. I guess I'll put the rail back on until I can find a better one.
Thanks for the help and comments.
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