Air/Fuel sensor bung location?

[78 propduster]

I saw somewhere that it should be at 10 or 2 O'clock.
Also saw a spec. for distance from collector end but can't find it.
Thanks

[IMPATIENT 1]

I saw somewhere that it should be at 10 or 2 O'clock.
Also saw a spec. for distance from collector end but can't find it.
Thanks
i'm getting good reading about 4inches past the collector, wether its at 12oclock or 6 oclock doesn't matter. distance from the merge in the collector is all you need to think about. mark your collector with a crayon, run the boat and it should burn away the crayon almost out to the tip of the header.this is crude header tuning but it works. ok now look at what crayon went away, stick the bung in the center of that and it should be close enough.

[JAY4SPEED]

My Innovate wide band instruction manual states that between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock is optimum and that you should never install one in the bottom from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock. The reasoning behind that is condensation can form in the exhaust and the condensation settles towards the bottom of the exhaust pipe. This condensation can contaminate the O2, throw off sensor readings, or kill the sensor if condensation is bad enough. I've personally welded the bungs in at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions and the sensor at a slight angle up with no problems. I angle the sensor up to keep any ambient conensation out of the sensor's cell. My personal feelings is that the 5 to 7 o'clock range is the zone that will kill sensors. But, this has been proven in a automotive applications with much more restrictive exhaust than a jetboat or V-drive with open headers. Most marine EFI systems I see with through transom headers run the O2 at the 12 o'clock position. To me thats just too ugly to run an O2 at 12 o'clock with over the transom headers.
The distance from the collector is important because if its too close to the end of the header (open exhaust), it could possibly get false readings from fresh air reverting back into the exhaust between exhaust pulses. Also, the sensor may not stay warm enough to give accurate readings. If its too close to where the collectors merge, you may only get readings from a few cylinders instead of all from that whole bank.
I would put them in at 3 o'clock , wiring end of the sensor angled slighly up and about 4 or 5 inches form where the pipes merge in the collector.
Jay

[BGMAN203]

Jay,
I have an Innovate reader too. How do you like yours?

[JAY4SPEED]

Jay,
I have an Innovate reader too. How do you like yours?
I love it, I'm using the LM1.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
I needed it to be portable to move from car to car with minimal fuss so the LC1 was out for me since it has to be hard wired in. I've had good luck with the LM1. The LM1 has a programable analog output which I've fiddled with to get more resolution out of (instead of a 0volt to a 1 volt range, I've redone it to a .5 volt to 4.5 volt). Which one are you using? Have you had any issues with yours?
I saw where F.A.S.T. came out with a duel WBO2 reader that reads each bank seperatly and can average both banks together for a narrow band output. Its a little bit pricey but if my LM1 ever goes out on me, I'll step up to this.
http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products...er/default.asp
Jay

[78 propduster]

Thanks for the info.!
I bought the Innovative also.

[BGMAN203]

I love it, I'm using the LM1.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
I needed it to be portable to move from car to car with minimal fuss so the LC1 was out for me since it has to be hard wired in. I've had good luck with the LM1. The LM1 has a programable analog output which I've fiddled with to get more resolution out of (instead of a 0volt to a 1 volt range, I've redone it to a .5 volt to 4.5 volt). Which one are you using? Have you had any issues with yours?
I saw where F.A.S.T. came out with a duel WBO2 reader that reads each bank seperatly and can average both banks together for a narrow band output. Its a little bit pricey but if my LM1 ever goes out on me, I'll step up to this.
http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products...er/default.asp
Jay
I am using the LM1 also. I love it. I was able to get about 3 more MPH in the 1/4 mile with it. I am also using the RPM converter which makes analizing every pass very easy.
I also like the fact that it is very portable.

[IMPATIENT 1]

My Innovate wide band instruction manual states that between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock is optimum and that you should never install one in the bottom from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock. The reasoning behind that is condensation can form in the exhaust and the condensation settles towards the bottom of the exhaust pipe. This condensation can contaminate the O2, throw off sensor readings, or kill the sensor if condensation is bad enough. I've personally welded the bungs in at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions and the sensor at a slight angle up with no problems. I angle the sensor up to keep any ambient conensation out of the sensor's cell. My personal feelings is that the 5 to 7 o'clock range is the zone that will kill sensors. But, this has been proven in a automotive applications with much more restrictive exhaust than a jetboat or V-drive with open headers. Most marine EFI systems I see with through transom headers run the O2 at the 12 o'clock position. To me thats just too ugly to run an O2 at 12 o'clock with over the transom headers.
The distance from the collector is important because if its too close to the end of the header (open exhaust), it could possibly get false readings from fresh air reverting back into the exhaust between exhaust pulses. Also, the sensor may not stay warm enough to give accurate readings. If its too close to where the collectors merge, you may only get readings from a few cylinders instead of all from that whole bank.
I would put them in at 3 o'clock , wiring end of the sensor angled slighly up and about 4 or 5 inches form where the pipes merge in the collector.
Jay
surely he knows better than injecting water into headers with an o2 sensor where would the condensation come from?

[H20MOFO]

so to do an a/f-02 sensor, the headers need to be jacketed not injected? also all of the ones i looked at said leaded fuel was a no no. is that true with all of them?(no leaded fuel)

[BGMAN203]

Don't let the rumors fool you, lead fuel will work with a wide band o2 sensor. The life of the sensor is limited to about 50hrs before it starts to fill up with deposits and stops giving a correct reading. That why they tell you it won't work. I have tuned several race cars that run lead fuel and alcohol motors with no problems.