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Thread: Tightening the weiand blower

  1. #1
    Shadow1
    I have been following the other post on the weiand blower as to the quality of the the weiand blower. I too found end clearance fairly large in the .019-.020 range. Since I like to tear my blower down yearly for new seals and bearings it would be simple at that time to shorten the case to reduce some of this clearance? I am assuming I want something more in the .007- .008 range and a simple case milling on the end would accomplish that?
    Rotor to rotor and case clearance can not be helped and I don't think I want to go teflon strips?
    Any advice on anything I can do to help my weiand blower would be appreciated. I run gas and can do all of the machining inhouse myself.
    Thanks again

  2. #2
    Schiada76
    Check with Littlefield or another blower shop on what the gain would be for your application. Why don't you ant to strip it?

  3. #3
    Shadow1
    Check with Littlefield or another blower shop on what the gain would be for your application. Why don't you ant to strip it?
    Stripping wouldn't bother me if I needed it. Since my case is NOT hard anodized would stripping maybe wear it out faster. 8 years ago I just bought a standard 8-71 weiand blower for my bigblock, nothing special but the price was really good.
    Another question on bearings. The standard bearing for this blower is 6205-2ZR.C3 This is a normal over the counter bearing, cheap easy to come by and I stock them for future teardowns.
    The seal is another thing? It has the same dimensions as a SKF 13021 but that seal is single lip VS the proper double lip. Does anyone know the bearing company that has the proper double lip seal?
    I prefer the bearing companies since I have a very good one close that I deal with regularly and if I knew a part number and a manufacturer they would stock the seal for me?
    Thanks

  4. #4
    @theRVR
    Stripping wouldn't bother me if I needed it. Since my case is NOT hard anodized would stripping maybe wear it out faster. 8 years ago I just bought a standard 8-71 weiand blower for my bigblock, nothing special but the price was really good.
    Another question on bearings. The standard bearing for this blower is 6205-2ZR.C3 This is a normal over the counter bearing, cheap easy to come by and I stock them for future teardowns.
    The seal is another thing? It has the same dimensions as a SKF 13021 but that seal is single lip VS the proper double lip. Does anyone know the bearing company that has the proper double lip seal?
    I prefer the bearing companies since I have a very good one close that I deal with regularly and if I knew a part number and a manufacturer they would stock the seal for me?
    Thanks
    Call Big Lee at Littlefield’s (714 992-9292) for your seals, a long time ago (1986) better seals were developed for blowers because the reg. single lip rubber would get hard, and the surface speed of the rotor shafts would also tear up the seals, so double lip nylatron seals were developed for this application. They might be a couple of $$ more but well worth the price.

  5. #5
    Shadow1
    Call Big Lee at LittlefieldÂ’s (714 992-9292) for your seals, a long time ago (1986) better seals were developed for blowers because the reg. single lip rubber would get hard, and the surface speed of the rotor shafts would also tear up the seals, so double lip nylatron seals were developed for this application. They might be a couple of $$ more but well worth the price.
    I am trying to work out a pulley/belt combination and when I find out what I want I will contact one of the big suppliers, order the pulleys/belt and seals all at the same time.
    I ordered bearings today from a local supplier to have them on hand for the teardown this winter. I was hoping to also order the seals locally instead of having them shipped across the country.

  6. #6
    BIGCHRIS
    I have been following the other post on the weiand blower as to the quality of the the weiand blower. I too found end clearance fairly large in the .019-.020 range. Since I like to tear my blower down yearly for new seals and bearings it would be simple at that time to shorten the case to reduce some of this clearance? I am assuming I want something more in the .007- .008 range and a simple case milling on the end would accomplish that?
    Rotor to rotor and case clearance can not be helped and I don't think I want to go teflon strips?
    Any advice on anything I can do to help my weiand blower would be appreciated. I run gas and can do all of the machining inhouse myself.
    Thanks again
    I have been folowing the other post also ,i have a weiand ,i checked the clearence on mine at both ends and it shows me around.008 to .010 if i am checking it correctly.i am thinking of putting bearings and seals in mine .FRom tearing it down it doesnt seem to be rocket science

  7. #7
    Warp Factor
    Rotor to rotor and case clearance can not be helped and I don't think I want to go teflon strips?
    Rotor/case clearance can be changed where it matters most (at the bottom) by offsetting the dowels that locate the end plates (bearing housings).
    On a low-helix blower, there's little air compression until the rotors dump into the manifold at the bottom, so the seal is most important at that point.
    For a non-anodized blower, rotor strips can be set up loose so they don't rub the case......reducing clearances from what you have, and helping to seal gaps between the rotors.
    On other than a 1/4 mile application, you probably don't want minus clearance stripping anyway, because it produces a lot of heat.

  8. #8
    Shadow1
    Rotor/case clearance can be changed where it matters most (at the bottom) by offsetting the dowels that locate the end plates (bearing housings).
    .
    Thanks. I wondered why they moved the dowels and now I know why. I have my own machine shop so I could easily lower both rotors to tighten it up on the bottom.
    I also wonder about timing the gears??? I read that you don't want your timing varying by more then .006. How do you measure that?
    I know there are shims behind the gears, to set backlash I assume?
    But again how do you measure timing???

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