Reply With Quotei hate to say it looks like something someone cobled up go get a regular dual 4 linkage from jegs or something but on a lighter note you know of any decent buys on jet boats not to worried about power cause it will get a chev regardless ty
There has to be a better way to do this , a little help please. Linkage is so tight that you have to stand on the pedal to move it, what a pain in the arse........ Help , I think I am going to move the bracket to the back carb with a bracket and use the big hole on both carbs tied together with a hiem joint and have on carb drive the other, what do you think? any on have pictures of their set up? [img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/766Dsc00987-med.jpg[/img]
i hate to say it looks like something someone cobled up go get a regular dual 4 linkage from jegs or something but on a lighter note you know of any decent buys on jet boats not to worried about power cause it will get a chev regardless ty
Give me a call Monday and I will give ya some advice on how to set this up. It shouldn't cost much for materials.
~Ty
(877)TPC-CARB
Will do I will call you on monday , Thanks tpc... Do you see why it is so hard to push the throttle?
looks like serious binding at the cable cause the linkage moves up and down as it open and closes the carbs you want a system where the cable stays level
I used 1/4 inch all thread and 2 heim joints. It was so easy and I have no cable bind. I paid about $15 with stainless bolts,nuts,etc wink Here is a pic of mine.
[img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/239oldstop1-med.jpg[/img]
Regardless of how you choose to OPEN the carbs, keep in mind that EACH carb needs a return spring!, other than that all thread is ok I guess, I chose 3/16 brass rod, threaded each end 10-32, and used carb linkage end pieces, lock nuts, and SPRINGS, as in TWO. Don't depend on the foot pedal to close the carbs, what if the cable breaks?........... Moneypitt
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