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Thread: Adding a wedge with a droop.

  1. #1
    Bahner tunnel
    I'm looking for more lift on top end. I have a manual diverter , a droop and ride plate on a 19' tunnel V hull. It seems to get faster the higher the roost is ,but is shooting water in the air not efficent compared to water aginst water for speed? Will the addition of a wedge help bring the nose up or will trimming the nozzle up more create the same affect without the wedge? It seems that the wedge will have the same affect as the "trim" , the wedge would make more lift with the nozzle at a lower angle , Right? Are wedges only for boats without a Place Diverter? What height "roost" do you have at your best top speed? Thanks.

  2. #2
    jet496
    A wedge will bring your front up & trimming would also do the same. You can put a wedge on with a droop, wedging up or down.
    My 21 foot boat runs top speed with the rooster only a couple feet high. I have a hydraulic diverter & droop. If I put a wedge on with my droop, my front end would probably rise more than I would want & most likely would cause porpoising that I wouldn't be able to control, even with trimming down all the way.

  3. #3
    VanDeano
    I have a 26' Hawaiian Day crusier and I find my best
    sped is when my roster is just skim'n the top of the water. I have just a stock berkley set up w/ a jet o vator.

  4. #4
    BK
    I have a 21' mini and find the best speed with the rooster about 4-6' high. If I go to high I can feel the back end start to dig and slow the boat down. Definately going to a droop this winter to see what effect it has on my hull.

  5. #5
    flat broke
    If you're looking for more lift and you already have a droop and diverter, I'd start looking underwater. You could increase the up angle of your rideplate a little bit to help get more of the nose out of the water at speed. Remove shims, or adjust turnbuckles to get more up angle. Just measure your current angle before you start so you can return to a known state.
    Since you have a rideplate, I assume it is the "real rideplate" style that required the intake to be machined for it to fit. If this is the case, you probably also have a shoe on the intake and could make changes there to generate more lift towards the back of the boat. Perhaps a back cut shoe would get a little more air under the glass.
    Depending on where you live, there are a couple great pump guys that folks here on the boards use with good success. Talk with some of them about your setup and I'm sure they can come up with a couple ideas.
    Chris

  6. #6
    Bahner tunnel
    I believe the ride plate is at 3 degrees as well as the plates at the back of each tunnel. I was out yesterday and a fuel delivery problem prevented many high speed runs. It would just start to get loose and the carb bowls would drain . I'll take it out this weekend and play with the ride plate and see what that does. I do have a removable shoe and it appears to be flat with the ride plate (not a backcut style). I have an open style loader grate. Does the grate style affect lift any?

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