Budget Blower Build

[jrork]

Folks, thanks for the tips. I appreciate it and I'm glad to see this thread back on track as it was ultimately planned to be just something to get some discussion going here.
Blue, Boost & Bigkat,
Thanks very much for the tips, tricks and advice. I'm kinda leaning towards swapping out the rotating assembly first as I'm afraid if something there let go in the interim, they could probably do the greatest damage (i.e. heads, block, ect).
I've typically used FelPro 1017's with good success till now. Could somebody explain the differences in the "Cometic or SCE" gaskets as I see they are typically highly regarded?
BigKat, once again I really appreciate the post and suggestion. In your opinion, would the 108 be a concern if I have to run water through my Bassetts?
Thanks again........john

[jetboatperformance]

John we've been using Cometics for years after encountering problems with dead softs and orings , My Buddy Hals BGF motor and Joshs both have them and Hals has 4 seasons ,They're laminate type gaskets similar to those even used on a lat of late model production stuff ,They(Cometic) have even made gaskets one off for us for special applications, kind of spendy but well worth the investment , I'm with the rest here re the Rot assy, go for the Steel,Forged,good rod & bolts etc delio and check out Summits (Dart) Iron rec port heads (smokin prices) It will all give you the confidence , I bought a couple of new Howards steel cranks a year or so back for a buck and a half each, ones still running in an 8.0 Alchy flat . Lots of good deals on rods and Pistons out there too ,if you just scout around ,let me know whats on your wish list we'll sick the kid on it ! Tommy
(re the "water" ,creat a positive shut off , it will be a non issue ,i'll explain)
(Cometic dealer )
http://www.cometic.com/gaskethome.aspx

[jrork]

Thanks Tommy, I'll check it out. Say hi to Rhonda and Josh for me

[TIMINATOR]

With flat machined decks and heads, (CBN head/deck MILL, NOT a low speed broach), with studs, Fel-pro 1017s will reliably work at 15 lbs. If you detonate the motor and use coppers and o-rings the gaskets will hold, but you will kill the bearings or split the cylinders! TIMINATOR

[jrork]

Thanks a bunch Timm. I pretty damn sure I'll never see 10 lbs of boost let alone 15 .
In your experiance, have you found studs that much better than good (ARP) bolts for more mild builds?
Thanks again.........john

[TIMINATOR]

Studs over 8-9 lbs, good, new, bolts, below that. TIMINATOR

[jrork]

Okay, we're definately back on track. Many thanks to all.
Just for the sake of discussion, a good friend just gave me a 990 head I can use instead of seeing whether the one that dropped the seat can be fixed.
So things are looking up. Also, the way better half has implied there may be more in the piggy bank that I realized so figure a good rotating assemble, a cool flat tappet cam like that has been recommended by BigKat and Timm, think these 990 heads are worth spending some $$ on versus running my 049s?
If so, let's build these up too. Iconel valves or just severe duty (remember, we're on a budget and Iconels must be half gold), stem size, spring recommendations and something that I've always wanted to ask:
Everbody runs roller rockers but are they really needed on what I still view is a very mild build or are they just sexy as hell and really needed for bigger and better types of builds?
Thanks again everybody. I really appreciate it.

[bigkatboat]

Don't ever run water thru the exhaust below 2000 RPMs, automatic valve (with 7/32" restrictor at T valve inlet) Drill the 'weep holes' larger in the pipe bottoms. This will work for blown or unblown motors. Inconel exhaust, standard stem and length. "No monster cams, no push rod or guide plate problems". 125/135 lbs on the seat and AT LEAST 350lbs 'over the nose'. (in case you ZING it) 3/8" push rods, and regular solid lifters. If manifold is big, port match heads to it. (just roll the corners!) Drill and tap the rear water passages of the intake. Install a #6 hose line from each side to a "T" and then overboard. This will prevent (idling to quick short WOT) 'air pockets' in the heads and make the head gaskets, valve guides and valve springs last longer. Save money, use an "SFI" flexplate, it just needs to have teeth on it for the starter. No balancer, FRONT HUB. Spark must be at least 40,000 volts, and around (with 108 cam) 12 to 18 degrees cranking and 32 degrees all in at 1200 RPMs. "Locked out stuff" is not good for PLAY BOATS, that need to crank at hotter engine temps. (no starter drag) OK, I'll breath now. YES roller rockers.

[jrork]

Awesome info George. Thanks a bunch. Now take a breath. That's info that anybody can use.
Thanks again........john

[blownt]

Fairly new on here. Been lurkin the last several months ever since I bought a 460 jetboat and been upgrading it. Just bought a super deal on a new BDS blower kit and Edelbrock heads still in boxes for $3500 for a winter project on the boat.
I have had a 6-71 blown T bucket for years. I question why using a 108 lobe center cam? When I first installed the blower on the bucket I had 10 1/2 hypert. pistons and kept the 108 cam to help blow the charge out the exhaust (as well as running underdriven). But once I rebuilt the motor with the good stuff I went with a good 114 cam and I am 12% overdriven. Been running that for many years now and man is it fun. The blower really tames down a 108 cam, while a 114 cam sounds and lopes great. Personally I would not go back to a 108 cam.
BT