Reply With QuoteWhat are you going to do with 100 amps? Are you powering a refrigerator, blender and 1000w stereo and full time bilge pump?
The only thing you need to charge is the battery and power to the coil (unless you have a stereo wink ).
I am looking at replacing my current alternator, that is marine approved (mesh screen and all that jazz) with a 100 amp one that is not marine approved. Is this a problem? I really dont have a problem with water getting up there, eventhough the engine compartment is open. Thanks for any advice....-DD Out
What are you going to do with 100 amps? Are you powering a refrigerator, blender and 1000w stereo and full time bilge pump?
The only thing you need to charge is the battery and power to the coil (unless you have a stereo wink ).
I had an auto alternator in my jet it worked fine.As for the 100 amp i think it might be overkill unless you are running a big stereo.if not a 60 would be plenty but stereo needs more 100 amp or more(this i know my stock mercruiser alt 55-60amp) is slow to recharge the stereo batt)
Mr. Danger,
I believe that, in California, if you do not have an engine hatch (engine is not enclosed), then a sparkless marine alternator is not required.
Anyone?
LO
You will be ok but you might want to look as the size of yo wire.
LakesOnly:
Mr. Danger,
I believe that, in California, if you do not have an engine hatch (engine is not enclosed), then a sparkless marine alternator is not required.
Anyone?
LO Any boat must have coast guard approved or marine type.If a boat shop were to repair they must use certified stuff by law but a do it your selfer can put whatever he wants to.Go figure
SuperDave, what gauge of wire would you recommend??
What I am powering is 2 Optimas, and a 200 watt Alpine amp, driving 4 Infinity Kappa 6x9's and an Alpine head unit. I dont know what size alternator is in there now (not a 100 amp for sure), but no matter how long I run the boat, the voltmeter slowly goes down, without running the stereo. It just seems like the alternator in there cant keep up with keeping the bats charged.
-DD Out
[ August 30, 2003, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: DickDanger ]
Dave you would need at least 10 gage wire for the alternator.Your voltage shouldnt be dropping that much.I am sure you are not listening to your radio while driving i dont see how you can have so much load to drain the batts.
What i do in my eliminat0r is put a batt charger to my batts on 2-10 amps the day before i go anywhere to top off my stereo batt so that i know it is topped off.Check to see if your connections are clean also.
YEAH, THE ALTERNATOR DEFINATELY HAS TO BE USCG APPROVED! WHAT GUAGE WIRE (AWG) ARE YOU RUNNING INTO THE AMPS? IT SHOULD BE A LEAST 4 AWG. WHAT GUAGE WIRE ARE YOU RUNNING FROM THE OUTPUT OF THE ALTERNATOR TO THE BATTERY?(I'M RUNNING 8 AWG!). HAVE YOU EVER DONE A CURRENT DRAIN TEST? A 50 AMP ALTERNATOR SHOULD BE ABLE TO KEEP UP WITH WHAT YOU HAVE.IF YOUR LIGHTS ARE DIMMING ON THE BASS BEAT INSTALL A 1 FARAD CAPACITOR! THAT WILL MAKE THE TUNES SOUND MUCH MORE ROBUST! THE PROBLEM IS THAT I DON'T KNOW OF ONE THAT IS USCG APPROVED...BILL.
Dick,
Asside from the other issues raised, I picked up a Marine but not Mercruiser certified 100amp from Teague a couple of years ago, still going strong.
If you are trying to charge both batteries at once, that could be a bit much for a tired stocker, plus you might be stopping short of a full charge. Try running one battery then the other and see if you might have better luck.
Chris
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