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Thread: Paging..... Paging NotGuilty, Hello are you listening?

  1. #1
    gnarley
    Hey NG,
    Question about that wiring. I got my Mallory and built the harness as shown on their schematic and yours. One thing I don't understand is when I cut the harness and removed the Prestolite module I traced a white wire to the shift interrupter (micro switch) on the other side of the engine. That wire goes to the micro switch and has a black one on the other side of it that goes to ground. I don't have a gray wire that goes to the coil since the coil was contained in the module box.
    Where is this gray wire in the harness and what does it go to? Is there another component that I should look for besides the old module? What does the interrupter itself look like? Is the interrupter only on the older engines? I wired the diode end direct to the coil, the interrupt end to the white wire that goes to the micro SW and the resistor end to ground.
    After running for some time and stopping in the water it loses spark & I then need to change the module. I have now just bypassed the additional wiring and said hell with the shift interrupter. You have any ideas???

  2. #2
    kevnmcd
    Hey gnarley, Are you running an old OMC outdrive (pre 1986) with a shift interupt module? I have one of those and was just curious.
    Kevnmcd

  3. #3
    gnarley
    Kevin, no it's a 1994 with cone clutches

  4. #4
    not guilty
    sorry been working long hours , havent had time to post.The problem here is your set up is the later model,The system the diagram is for is for the older type , they had two of the cut-out switches that grounded out thru a supressor coil.The purpose of the resistors and the diodes are to keep from burning out the module in the dist. wich is the problem you are having.
    The microswitch on your model acts as a split-second signal to the command module.
    I,m assuming you did hook the diodes and micro switch into the negative pole on the coil.If not disregard the rest of this and do so, although i still think the problem is the direct ground thruogh the one switch.
    There may be a different way to wire in different resistors into the one switch you have,was starting to post an option on putting in the older style set up but that could be expensive trial - error!
    I'll put a call into Dennis Mcgee at mallory and see what he says may be a short fix.You dont want to be running without the interupter as it is hard on the drive!
    let you know when I here back from him, should be today . NG
    [This message has been edited by not guilty (edited April 26, 2002).]

  5. #5
    gnarley
    NG thanks, all work and no play... or it could be work now while its still cold where you are and play longer when it warms up?
    Anyway to discuss your suggestion
    You said; "I,m assuming you did hook the diodes and micro switch into the negative pole on the coil.If not disregard the rest of this and do so, although i still think the problem is the direct ground."
    Yes it was hooked up but I don’t know if it was like you are suggesting. The diode end to the neg side of coil yes, and the micro sw (white wire) to the resistor/diode side, not the resistor end. Follow so far?
    You said; "You said you bypassed the cutout switch, which does work for a while but will prematurely wear out your shift cogs. I think the best way to go about this is to buy the supressor for the older style cobras and wire it to the grounded side of the microswitch,it has 4 wires on it - connect the two gray(or blue) to the switch wire that was going to ground and then connect the two black ones to ground.Then following the diagram wire the risitors and diodes into a wire leading from the negative pole on the coil to the microswitch (Ithink this is your white wire)."
    Next, yes I did bypass the cutout sw, but I am told since it has cone clutches, unlike your dog style it will not wear out, it might become hard to shift? Volvo uses cones and does not use a cutout sw from what I know and they have no problems.
    I think the big thing to remember here is the late (1994 & older) drives were prepared by Volvo, unlike yours and the earlier OMC’s that were OMC prepared. Hence your drive is similar but different and I am told that MY drive is virtually indistinguishable from a Volvo. So is the shift interrupter basically a holdover from the earlier design that was really not needed?
    Also I know that Merc went to cone clutches recently when the patent ran out on Volvo’s design & they too use a shift interrupter or sw that tells the module to drop the idle while shifting, so I am told & in a similar fashion to the OMC design.
    I am very leery of re-connecting this damn thing! There has to be a way to make the Mallory live in this configuration and not cause problems with the drive.
    Anyone else have any answers?

  6. #6
    not guilty
    Gnarly-If you look you will notice I deleted some of that last post because I was a little unsure after looking at diagrahms on the two.Waiting on a call back from mallory about it . It may be fine to opperate without the cut-out , not sure but if there is a way to use it without killing a $80 module every weekend I,d do it.How does it run other than that, did you gain any RPM without having the rev-limiter??
    I'll post back when I here from mallory.
    Dont mean to mis-lead anywhere , but havent worked on but a few of the versions like yours . http://free.***boat.net/ubb/frown.gif NG

  7. #7
    gnarley
    NG, thanks for calling Mallory I have spoken to them about 2-3 times a week for the last 2 weeks and only now did I figure out that their diagram is ONLY for the old system and they are trying to use it on a late system and they don’t know what is happening because of it.
    I am still a bit nervous about shifting since I have no clear answer on the wear factor or possible sticking of the shifting or how it might start if stuck in gear. I will learn more this weekend. Other than that it seemed to start coming alive but had too much total timing in it (34 degrees) and heard some detonation on pump gas so I backed down quickly & when I went to put the light on it I realized that I didn’t bring it. (I now need to check the plugs & do a leak down and comp test.) Then after the module failed and I switched it, I just wanted to put it on the trailer and bring it home.
    You could say my confidence has been slightly shaken. And oh-yeah it wants to run more RPM, it feels like the 24 slips when you hit it hard around 3500 to 4000. So on the advice of my boat-racing buddy who was with me testing we felt a 28 would be a better place to start. I also need to get the boost guage in to know what is really going on. I spoke to Harold Kindsvader who just so happened to be the builder of the hull my buddy races in IHBA pro eliminator and does work on props thru MENKENS V-DRIVES. Harold said to go with the 28 also so I am waiting for it to show up next week.
    Don’t worry your not misleading in any way and the advice has been thoroughly thought out and scrutinized and I would not make a modification unless I totally understand all the ramifications. I just appreciate your input and being a sounding board. I will share the results for later use.
    Thanks,
    Gnarley Charlie

  8. #8
    not guilty
    Just got off the phone with Dennis at mallory , he said the way I described the wiring of the resistors and diodes into the system would work fine on the newer system as it just needs to ground out for a second to slow the motor down and the purpose of the diodes and resistors is to protect the module ...??(thats what I thought too!)
    Next element of concern would be your power to the coil. You did put a ballast resister in line to the coil didnt you ?If not direct voltage to the module all the time will wipe it out fast!
    I'll check back later tonight . http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif NG

  9. #9
    gnarley
    NG, without reading the wiring (from memory) I think that the module goes to RED 12V side of the resistor (power in), the green to NEG side of the coil & BRN to Ground. Are you saying to me that the RED module wire should be on the 9V side of the resistor??? That would or could definitely suppress any spike or surge to the module. I’ll recheck my schematic.... Again. And as far as I remember the coil gets resisted voltage and not 12v from the IGN.
    [This message has been edited by gnarley (edited April 26, 2002).]

  10. #10
    not guilty
    Yes,deffinatly check to make sure you have resistance to the coil hot lead.I can tell you if you didnt buy a ballast resistor and put in it its not(99% sure anyway).The old system didnt require it and I checked the factory diagrahm and it doesnt point any resistor or loom out.
    I also have my module picking up power (red wire) on the resistance side at the coil .Its worked fine for 2 years !I think there may be a typ-o on mallorys diagrams, if you have the same one I have look above the one with the resistor block at the one with a loom wire and it shows it wired like mine,I did it that way to be safe.
    Again i point ouit if you didnt install a resistor I believe your problem is solved, did you ?? let me know.... http://free.***boat.net/ubb/wink.gif NG

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