That's a very debatable question. I've run some small block AFR's. They were very nicely done. I've run some Darts and found some problems with thin valve seats and not accurate in stud locations (may have since been corrected.) I've run the late GM performance head and they were fine except 20 runs later they had to be resuraced to be flat. Have a set of Edelbrocks new on the shelf, not run yet. I run Brodix on the three motors we have alive. Brodix have some features I like best. 80 runs blown alcohol and getting their first valve job since new impresses me. Also still straight and flat. Chambers were "as cast" closer than others. Personal preference. Blown alky hard on seats and valves. All this may not really apply to your application.
Most important. Be cautious buying complete cylinder heads ready to bolt on. Reason with yourself how come complete heads are only a few bucks more than bare heads. Lot's of cheap valves, retainers, springs and guideplates out there that are coming on these heads. Be sure you know what you are buying. You don't want $5 valves (even if they are stainless) in these boat motors. Always best to buy bare heads and individual components.