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Thread: Subs

  1. #11
    likwidsukr
    Originally posted by Havasu Hangin'
    Just curious...what kind of parameters do you use for the cabin (bow) install?
    What (if any) characteristics do you take into account for box and/or subwoofer design for a bow install?
    I second that HH. I would like that info as well.

  2. #12
    Havasu Hangin'
    Originally posted by likwidsukr
    I second that HH. I would like that info as well.
    Here's my (long ramble) on subs in the bow.
    Since the bow area (or cabin in a bigger boat) is an enclosure itself, has a tuning frequency. This frequency is dictated by size, as well as the size of the opening (along with interior, etc.).
    The audio competition guys have figured out that frequency tuning is very important if they want to win (AKA- loud). There was a guy hitting 160+dbs with a single 10" last year...I don't think he could have done it without calculating the tuning frequency of his car, then designing the box (and sub) to match.
    Placing subs in the bow induces the sub frequencies into this area, before exiting into the seating area. Now...what you've created is a big "band pass" to some degree. Depending on the tuning frequency of the sub box and the bow area, it could create standing wave problems (or none at all).
    How many times have you heard bow subs that are "boomy"? They sound loud as hell in the bow are (even flexes the deck), but loses something once you get outside. Probably more often than not.
    Smaller jets are less prone to this, as the smaller enclosure with the bigger opening will usually have a higher tuning frequency than the subs.
    So I guess what I'm saying is that bow sub installers usually fall into one of two categories:
    1. Those that calculate the tuning frequency, and build a custom enclosure to match.
    2. A kid with a drill, some particle board, and a saw that put them there "because there's lots of room".
    There are very few #1's out there...as most installers are looking to get you out the door (I used to be one)...and calculating the interior surface area (and accoustics) of a boat is not fun.
    Sometimes you'll get lucky with #2, but I'd look to #1 for guidance.
    I built my pedestal for my subs 'cuz I ain't smart enough to figger how boomy they'd be under the bow....and I didn't want to chance it.
    http://www.highperformancecars.com/h...r_pedestal.jpg
    http://www.highperformancecars.com/hhangin/subs.jpg

  3. #13
    likwidsukr
    HH
    Are those speaker covers and what did you go with,speaker wise on your box?
    I have to build a seat in back so that looks like the best route!!!!
    What size wood is that and is it plywood? Did you do the upholstery, it looks great. Looking for ideas.

  4. #14
    Havasu Hangin'
    Originally posted by likwidsukr
    HH
    Are those speaker covers and what did you go with,speaker wise on your box?
    I have to build a seat in back so that looks like the best route!!!!
    What size wood is that and is it plywood? Did you do the upholstery, it looks great. Looking for ideas.
    Those are some cheap wire covers that I painted white. I really liked the Kicker covers, but they were too tight.
    http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...l20601G10.jpeg
    Maybe RD could make you some cool billet covers...I was going for the "stealth" look.
    I made my pedestal/box out of 3/4" marine ply- strong stuff, and no gaps, so it's accousically as good (if not better) than MDF. I also glassed it...so it'll probably outlive my boat. Each chamber has .75 cu ft.
    The upholstery was unbelievably simple. I had already rounded the edges, so I took it to an upolstry place- for $20, he laid some padding down, and stapled the vinyl to the front. Probably took him 5 minutes. I glued some black felt to the back, that can be seen from the engine compartment.
    Here's how it looked when I dry-fit the seat on top.
    http://www.highperformancecars.com/h...ar_bench_2.jpg
    There are other ways to go- Slick made a cool "down-firing" pedestal...you can't even see his subs through the slot. Another friend of mine did his firing through ports. I didn't have much room, so I went with the traditional front-firing (sealed) baffle setup.
    The speakers are Infinity Perfects powered by a JBL 1200.1- the same setup as RC (I think he copied me...but don't say anything).
    It'll rattle your teeth...not bad for some little 10's...

  5. #15
    riverbound
    Sorry to not get back to you sooner HH but I have been very busy at the shop (xmas time) When we do a box in the bow we do factor the amount of remaining air space and the size of the opening to the outside. but that is just to see if those perameters will affect the sound. We are not specifically using those to tune the subs to a specific frequency.
    There is a little more involved than a drill, particle board and a saw.

  6. #16
    Havasu Hangin'
    Originally posted by riverbound
    There is a little more involved than a drill, particle board and a saw.
    So you don't work at Best Buy, eh?
    My theory is that if you box is tuned to a frequency higher than the cabin or bow area...then you'll get "boomy" or flat bass.
    I just can't imagine trying to calculate (within 10%) some of those boat interior dimensions...it gives me a headache just thinking about it (unless I am getting $75/hour)...

  7. #17
    riverbound
    No Best buy in my resume.

  8. #18
    riverbound
    I don't get headaches thinking about it (I hire people to do the thinking for me)

  9. #19
    likwidsukr
    What if I put 1 up in bow and 1 in seat or two in seat none in bow and vise versa?
    What are everyone opinion??????

  10. #20
    Havasu Hangin'
    Originally posted by likwidsukr
    What if I put 1 up in bow and 1 in seat or two in seat none in bow and vise versa?
    I wouldn't split them up...why build 2 boxes when 1 will do?

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