Correction on that part#: 675-YLM567EV. The other one is a points distributor.
OL
Sorry about the type-o on the part # ,that could have been ugly! eek!
I set mine at about 8* idle , these distributers come set to curve about 30* by 2500 rpm if I recall.When you get it look down inside at the plate and you will see an adjustment for the stop on the advance, they are 2 screws across from each other with a slot and stopper next to them, I run mine wide open on 92 octane with 9.5:1 modified motors. no probs NG
NG,
Got the boat running witht he 750 Sea Demon and the new distributor. I also put a new fuel pump on. Well its running pretty good but I have an odd backfire when cruising steady throttle about 3,000 rpm. It runs strong up to about 4,600 and the hesitation I had with the 800 is gone. My mechanic buddy timed it at 15* idle. It was running strong at that but seemed to miss at a constant lower cruise RPM 2800-3300. I backed it down to 10* and its ran smoother but then backfires when cruising once in awhile. My mechanic buddy said 8* was way to far back but unfortunately I ran out of time on the lake and couldn't try 8*. I threw a belt and that soaked up all my time before I had to pick my daughter up from school. Anyway, could the timing be too advanced at 10*? I didn't notice any knocking running 92 octane.
Any thoughts?
BTW, the damn OMC fuel pump I got is only putting out 4 PSI. The orginal 1987 pump was putting out 5 PSI but was bounsing severly. The new one puts out a steady 4PSI. Its running great at WOT and doesn't seem to be running out of fuel. I hate to take it back out but I think I might have to put in a holly or something. What PSI do you run?
Thanks,
OL
As far as timing I run mine at 8 idle , keep in mind these have a lot wider advance swing than a stock if you have the stops set wide open , wich is where I run mine.You may end up have to put a little tighter primary spring in to not let it advance so much so early.
As far as fuel pressure if it seems to run at WOT ok I dont think I'd get to concerned about the difference. NG
NG,
Do I need to run a ballast resistor? Does the 87 OMC 460 have one stock? We burned up the damn module after about 2 hours.Mallory says it needs one: 1.3ohm chevy type.
BTW, Figured out the timing/miss issue--it turned out to be my buddy's helper dropped a spark plug and didn't re-gap it. The gap was practically closed
I should be on the lake by October at this rate LOL.
Thanks,
OL
Old Lavey, you need to run a ballast, if not you will pour lots of money into modules. If you want I'll send you a ballast if you send me the cost of a module for every time you go out
The 87 king has a re-sistor wire going to the dist built into the harness. As long as you used this wire it should be fine , never had any problems with mine. NG
I would add in that whatever wire is hot you should make sure it is the correct voltage with the ignition on just to make sure & ignition cranking voltage is enough while cranking.
Gee, thanks Gnarley
Ok, I'm learning here. How do I know if its resistor wire?Check the voltage like Gnarley said? Or check the ohms/resistance. What readings should I look for. What if I add the balast and it already has resistor wire? That would probably be too much. Damn this is frustrating.
Thanks for helping guys. I appreciate it!
OL
With the wire disconnected if you have 12 volts then it is not resisted & you need one, if it is 6-9 volts (if I remember right & scratching my head) it would be resisted. Just make sure you check it disconnected from the ignition parts. If you have the same voltage at the end of the wire as the battery you need a ballast.
Don't be frustrated, it really is easy once you've done it & better than blowing modules every trip out eek!
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