Reply With QuoteI use redline "heavy shock proof" gear oil, and I modified the top cap to get more oil to the top bearing. that took about 10 minutes of figuring and 1 minute of die grinding. No pics, sorry, but it is pretty self explanatory.
Probably a self explanatory # like maybe 280? I am just curious and I haven't got a manual to read. I am pondering a swap from 350 to 454 and I want to run over the transom headers. Any thoughts on my daydreams?
My boat is a 22 1/2 Kona bubble deck day cruiser. I haven't got any pics but the whole family thinks it would look good. I have a friend who can probably morph a BBC into a pic for me on his computer. The more I think about it the more I know I am gonna do it!!!
I use redline "heavy shock proof" gear oil, and I modified the top cap to get more oil to the top bearing. that took about 10 minutes of figuring and 1 minute of die grinding. No pics, sorry, but it is pretty self explanatory.
I have been really consumed with this idea, I don't have a motor or a time table so either this coming winter or the next I WILL swap the motor, lose the underwater exhaust and have my "hot rod day cruiser"
I hot rodded my daycruiser a few years ago. I beefed up the motor to 450 HP and 460 ft-lbs.
The 280 is a very tough drive. The key is to not shift them at too high of an idle. There is a bushing in the top cap that gets worn, but there is a brass piece that was put in deisel applications that will help.
Most Volvo guys will tell you that they are much tougher than than Bravo. The Volvos were made for very harsh saltwater use...if treated right, a small block should not hurt it.
The only downfall is they are tough to hotrod. They have a very blunt nose, which does not help the speed. Also, most are installed at a VERY conservative x-dimension. Drive showers are non-existant.
I put a nosecone on mine, and had to fab hydraulic steering brackets and a drive shower. Not alot of fun...lol.
You have just about made my mind uo for me...thanks! I guess I am a out drive novice but what is a shower??? Also the conservative "x" dim? Where can I educate myself on these things BEFORE getting a project in my head. :rollside:
You have just about made my mind uo for me...thanks! I guess I am a out drive novice but what is a shower??? Also the conservative "x" dim? Where can I educate myself on these things BEFORE getting a project in my head. :rollside:
A drive shower is a small tube that sits on a bracket at the water level (when on plane), and gets water forced up through it. It then deposits this water onto the top cap to help keep the upper cool while running. Lots of them out there for Mercs, but none for Volvos. They look something like this:
http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/Pictures/295_23.jpg
BTW, since the drive is reversable, I believe you should be running left hand rotation in forward. That will put the stress on the upper gears/bearings, instead of the (smaller) lowers.
Also, a Volvo guy once told me that one of the few things that can hurt these old Volvo drives are fishing line. If it gets wrapped around the propshaft, it will take the seal out, and you'll get water in the oil. Just put good oil in it, and check it often.
The x-dimension is how deep the drive sits in the water. If you run the drive shallower, there is less drive in the water (less drag = more speed). You really can't change that without filling in the transom, and re-installing the whole package (including the engine) higher.
I had though about taking my lower to a machine shop to make it a shorty...but it really wan't worth the bill for a few MPH....lol.
I seriously appreciate your input, I am using left hand rotation, the shower thing looks like a good idea. The only other outdrive I have owned was a merc, but it was in my first boat back in the 70's...a tri hull with a GM 4cyl :boxed: The Kona doesn't have alot of transom left to spare as it sits now. Thanks again!
I seriously appreciate your input, I am using left hand rotation, the shower thing looks like a good idea. The only other outdrive I have owned was a merc, but it was in my first boat back in the 70's...a tri hull with a GM 4cyl :boxed: The Kona doesn't have alot of transom left to spare as it sits now. Thanks again!
No worries! I'm glad all my pain can help someone else...lol.
You've probably discovered why the x-dimension is so deep on daycruisers. The V is so shallow, that they probably couldn't install the engine any higher, so they were stuck with what they had to work with.
If you hot rod the boat significantly, you're going to have to tackle two issues eventually:
1. Steering- The stock Volvo steering is not up to par for any significant speeds. To be safe, your gonna need hydraulic (external) steering. Since they don't make them, your gonna have to adapt a Merc system, which includes finding someone to make a wingplate for the top cap. Not too tough, but an obstacle nonetheless.
2. Trim- This is a major issue. Unless you have the 280T, once down, that outdrive locks into place. You can dump a bunch of HP at the boat, but unless you trim it properly, you will see little gains. I ended up buying a 290 transom shield and trim pump to convert mine over (the 280 and 290 were the same outdrive with a different transom assembly). It probably cost me $1,500 in parts from a boneyard (the only place to get the parts, since they don't make them anymore). You also have to pull the engine and modify the transom to fit the 290 transom shield.
In the 70's and 80's...those Volvo outdrives were used in offshore racing- very stout. Donzi used them in alot of their offshore performance boats of that era, so those guys have been down this road with trying to hot rod the old Volvos.
The outdrive itself is strong, but those issues above are probably why you don't see many guys dumping alot of HP at them (unless you are stubborn like me...lol).
"Trim- This is a major issue. Unless you have the 280T, once down, that outdrive locks into place."
This would explain why I don't have a trim indicator...all I have is a switch that has an indicator light that goes out when the drive is all the way down.
I have been wondering if it is correct to use this switch as an adjustable trim. Will it damage the "raise/lower" mechanism? I really need to enroll in Volvo-Penta 101. I am always trying to use Merc knowlege and its "apples and oranges" quite often.If not, maybe adjustable trim tabs.
And yes I probably AM as stubborn as you are, but then... you said that like it's a bad thing
By the way is the engine compartment in your avatar yours?
We live in Sparks (Reno) and are planning to make a trip to Havasu this summer. I haven't been there for twenty two years. Been dying for warm (read HOT) weather. I tell my older kids about the floating bars on the Parker strip and all the fun we used to have there. They are chompin at the bits to check it out them selves. Some of my kids were babies back then!!!
Glad they weren't there when I skied naked past Rock Palace
Later
This would explain why I don't have a trim indicator...all I have is a switch that has an indicator light that goes out when the drive is all the way down.
I have been wondering if it is correct to use this switch as an adjustable trim. Will it damage the "raise/lower" mechanism? I really need to enroll in Volvo-Penta 101. I am always trying to use Merc knowlege and its "apples and oranges" quite often.
Volvo actualy invented the outdrive, and I believe the Merc Bravo design was "borrowed" from the Volvo 280. Apples to oranges...you bet!
Unlike Merc units that use hydraulic rams, the Volvo 280 used a small worm motor to raise and lower the drive. Actually, gravity lowers the drive, and the motor just pushes it up.
Once the drive lowers, there are some clips that lock it into place. The clips will hold it down to a horizontal bar just under the drive. This bar is the only adjustment you have- there are three settings on the bar, but you have to pick your trim setting before you lower the drive. Just unscrew the plastic nut, slide the bar out, and insert it back in a different hole.
When the drive is shifted in forward, the clips will hold the drive down unless you hit something- then they release when about 100lbs of force is applied backward. This is supposed to minimize damage when you hit something...the drive just swings out of the way.
The clips also have a reverse lock-out feature. When you shift to reverse, they lock down so that the 100lbs of pressure from backing won't release the drive.
NEVER OPERATE THE ENGINE WITHOUT THE DRIVE LOCKED DOWN (the light "off"). If you do, the drive, transom shield, and/or worm motor can be damaged...it's not made to have adjustable trim on the water. If you drive with the light on, all that force will be applied to that little worm motor and shaft. I cracked my old transom shield from that...lol.
I had trim tabs on my old boat. They helped keep the bow down at slower speeds, but if you really want to make you boat carry the nose, your gonna need to trim it high (and let it fly). I guess your gonna have to make that decision as you go. $ = speed (the story of my life).
Yep...that's my engine compartment. OPEC loves me...lol. I've been going to Havasu since I was a kid, too. I'm usually in Havasu a couple times a month, so maybe I'll see you out there.
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