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Thread: 1985 200merc loads up

  1. #11
    DUCKY
    Originally posted by VIKING
    Ducky: When it loads up she just won't go. I have to trim up and rev her up until the smoke clears. then trim down and hammer down. the boat will run strong until you stop and idle. I will get the carb #'s and look for the valve.
    There is no excuse for that sort of behavior. Get me the #'s and I'll be glad to help however I can. You mentioned that new bleed lines were installed, and the reeds were changed. If the bleed line were put on wrong, that could be your culprit. Check em against the service manual to make sure that all are going to and from the right places, and that all the necessary check valves are functional. Also, the instructions for Boyesen reeds recommends a jet change, but I have found it to be un-necessary in most cases. If someone changed the jets, they may have went crazy and went up 4-6 sizes, or they may have not gotten them tight, and now a couple of them fell out and are sitting in their passages.

  2. #12
    sorry dog
    Hey Duck. While your answering 2.4 questions, maybe you could tell me if this can be JB welded back together?
    http://www.ihatewomen.com/duck.jpg

  3. #13
    VIKING
    Whats up Duck! The carb # is WH-39 1,2,3. As I said earlier I had just purchased the engine in the spring. When I rigged the boat after changing wire harness and putting a fresh gel coat of clear to make her shine I had some wires wrong and my tach did't work anymore and my batteries run down could part of the loading up be from me frying somthing? I did notice that when the batteries were gone and trying to get back to the dock I had to slowly try to get up to speed by keeping her rpms high an slowly working the trim and jack plate.

  4. #14
    VIKING
    Hey Sorry Dog, I tried to look at the pic and could not pull it up. JB weld is some good stuff hope it works.

  5. #15
    Forkin' Crazy
    Originally posted by DUCKY
    All carbureted outboards will load up some when idling, due to the lack of suffcient heat in the combustion camber to keep the plugs clean.
    Not true. If it is loading up, it is rich, periode!
    Not much on Merc carbs, but don't they have an idle mixture screw for each venturi on top of each carb? Seems like my buddies does. I'll check with him.
    Maybe that is just black motors. All my OMCs will idle for as long as you want.

  6. #16
    Forkin' Crazy
    Originally posted by sorry dog
    Hey Duck. While your answering 2.4 questions, maybe you could tell me if this can be JB welded back together?
    http://www.ihatewomen.com/duck.jpg
    LOL! I would recomend some fiberglass cloth to fill that hole the size of my fist...LOL!

  7. #17
    VIKING
    I thought I was having problems

  8. #18
    Tom Brown
    The key to repairing a block like that keeping the epoxy from building up too much in the cylinder as that robs power.
    Do you suppose #6 got a little warm?

  9. #19
    DUCKY
    Originally posted by sorry dog
    Hey Duck. While your answering 2.4 questions, maybe you could tell me if this can be JB welded back together?
    http://www.ihatewomen.com/duck.jpg
    Hey, where did you find the pic of my last 2.4? HEHE!
    I have had a couple that looked like that......
    Although I know a few guys that would try to reassemble that with epoxy, I don't think it would work.......
    And Viking, I'll check those numbers and get back to you soon.

  10. #20
    DUCKY
    Originally posted by Forkin' Crazy
    Not true. If it is loading up, it is rich, periode!
    Not much on Merc carbs, but don't they have an idle mixture screw for each venturi on top of each carb? Seems like my buddies does. I'll check with him.
    Maybe that is just black motors. All my OMCs will idle for as long as you want.
    I should have phrased that "all Mercs with WH-series carbs"..... The WMH's (late '90 and up) have idle screws and run much cleaner.

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