I've used stainless for motor mounting in the past.
I had no problems, use anti-sieze or the stainless tends to gall.
I torqued mine to about 60 ft/lbs. Too much more and you can crush the stringers.
id like to get some input on useing stainless steel bolts for the motor mounts on a 4 point (old style) aluminum mounting system.
almost all the bolts are 3/8" . the ones that go through the stringers and mounting pads(2 bolts), then the 1/2" thick aluminum plate is attached to the pads with 2 more bolts, then the plate is attached to the motor with 4, 1/2" bolts in front of the block. the rear bell housing is the same way (except use 3/8" to the block). i have a bunch of SS socket head (allen head) bolts that would look awsome, but are they strong enough? i used oil on the threads and SS nylock nuts, and tried not to do my hercules impression when torqueing them down.
I've used stainless for motor mounting in the past.
I had no problems, use anti-sieze or the stainless tends to gall.
I torqued mine to about 60 ft/lbs. Too much more and you can crush the stringers.
SS should be fine Victor. Use anti-seize and do not use Air Impact Wrenches on SS. Invitation for galling.
i use them on my rail kit and they work great , thought eh ones that came with my ride plate sheared off this weekend the ones that mount the end to the cradelso i lost a few shims out ther some were
SS on the front of a 3 point mount, 4 bolts per side...think their strong enough?
I would go with it hammer. It takes alot of force to shear off a bolt sideways, even stainless. That is assuming they are tight and not "overtight". Overtightening stainless can certainly lead to its failure. Snug em up good and call it a day using nylocs so they cannot loosen up. You're also talking about 4 3/8 dia bolts here. It would take alot of force to shear that off.
thanks guys. i will stay with the SS bolts. they look awsome on there. i used nylocks on all that called for nuts. i for the life of me couldnt find my anti seize, but i used some royal purple oil and they went on nice and smooth. also made sure to not do the hercules impression and over tighten to a stretch. id rather check em after a few and tighten them than have to look around under the motor for the head of the bolt that snapped off. tomorrow i will pick up some anti seize and re-install the ones that go into the block of the motor. thanks again for the reasurance.
Be sure to use bolts made of 304 or 316 stainless. The 400 series bolts can rust. With some elbow grease you can get a 304 series to polish up like chrome.
Can't stress enough the need for anti seize. My old job that was all we used was SS hardware (dam I miss the finge benifits of that job, don't miss all the chemicals though). Once a nut or bolt gall up your only option is to grind it off. Which in certain locations can be ugly, and if its a tapped hole you're SCREWED because its almost impossible to drill out.
i have no idea on how to tell the differance between the 304, 316, or the 400 series. i basically stick a magnet to it and if there is any reaction at all i dont use it. i figure the pure stainless wont react to a magnet. am i wrong? how do you know what grade SS it is? and the galling is definatly a bummer. once it starts , thats it. break the bolt. thats why i will re-install all the ones that go into the block with anti sieze.
Usually its stamped on the head where the grade mark would be. The magnet trick works if they are not marked. A magnet will attract 400 series SS. But not a 300 series.
Sound like you already got that part figured out.