Shoe and rideplate ?'s

[Bryan Rose]

Well I have been thinking about tis for a while and thought I would finally ask. At what speed do you really have to have a shoe? Those of you out there how fast did you go before hitting the wall with no shoe. The reason I ask this is I have a duel carb cheater system brand new in the box sitting in the warehouse and am considering putting it on the boat. or should I not waste my time untill I shoe it? Educate me...
The boat runs a solid 80 now on GPS and have had it to 82.3 on a perfect day, all this with no shoe on the boat. 5400 - 5500 revs Spinning an impellar a skoche down from a full A
I do have a Place ride plate that installed under the droop and when I first put it on anything over about 30mph and the whole plate was out of the water, I installed a 3/4 inch piece of aluminum the lenght of the mounting plate to lower it . It now sits about 1/4 inch above the bottom of the transom at the leading edge and it now seems to help the boat nose over sooner... getting on plane the plate is set at 2.3 degrees up from the keel centerline. Seems to work ok here, Am I right in the assumption all this plate really does is keep my gear from running in the water creating drag? or what ... So
So back to the ? is it worth installing and squeezing it with a 150 shot hoping for more speed and rev's or will the pump just run out of water and cavitate... I am already running a laoder grate from Hi-Tech and I think it works Anyone understand what I am asking here.
And finally thanks for all the help in the past here is the pic of the rideplate.http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...C01773-med.JPG

[BrendellaJet]

I have read before that those plates are a waste of money. For a ride plate to do any good it needs to attach to the shoe as well. I would go with a ride plate/shoe before installing the nos. I've read that you need a rideplate/shoe for anything going faster than 70, although you seem to have done fine without it.
Is the intake set back, or can it be set back more than an anch or two? If not may not be worth while? I bet you could gain a few mph with a set back and a shoe/ride plate. If you want to do it yourself I can send you some pics of how I did mine. Jack and Hammerdown really helped me out and I took really good notes.

[UBFJ #454]

Pray tell, just what is the function of the steel braid line from the transom plate to the "Ride Plate"?

[Bryan Rose]

oil cooler pick , up for force feeding oil cooler

[MudPumper]

Originally posted by BEAR_454PE
Pray tell, just what is the function of the steel braid line from the transom plate to the "Ride Plate"?
I was wondering the same thing.
?????

[UBFJ #454]

ooOh Kaayee -

[Squirtin Thunder]

So its a water injected oil cooler ???? Hummmmm doesn't that make a milkshake (Chocolate) ?????
COOL !!!!!!!!!!
Jim

[rssfla]

looks like that oil cooler line works like a drive shower on an io
that probabally shaves about a 1/2 a mph off!
why not use the water from the pump for the oil cooler? I'm asking because i am about to rig my prpject boat and i did buy an oil cooler for it. Was planning on plumbing it in right after the pressure regulator.

[Bryan Rose]

The reason I plumbed it the way I did was so I do not always have water cooling the oil, where we run in the south most of the lakes never get over 80 dergrees, not that it matters but just idleing getting warmed up I do not want to cool the oil, The only time I want water going to the cooler is under hard running, therefor I chose not to plumb it from the pump. Temps never get over 240 after a hard run plumbed the way it is and oil temp comes up to operating temp sooner= better lubrication
Sounds good anyway. thats my story
Bryan

[UBFJ #454]

Can't fault you logic ... Not a bad idea ... But I'd move the intake off the ride plate ... Maybe build a bracket allowing the intake position to be somewhere similar ... Ride plates just too touchy ... Probably should also strengthen it along its top w/angle AL.
Just thinking out load.