Hello Everyone.im New Here And I Just Noticed Dominator Scotts Engine.what Kind Of Boat Is It In.i Have A 1978 Trophy Custom Marine Jet Boat That Has A Harman Built 460 Ford In It.i Cant Find Any History On Those Motors.your Motor Looks Awesome.how Has That Motor Been For You?
TCRUSH,
The boat is a 78 Sanger Super Jet with a Harman Marine 460 Ford motor. I actually have the original owners manual to this boat and the motor too.
If you have a particular question about the motor I could probably help you out with that.
Hey Scott, Nice engine...do yourself a favor and don't run the engine on the hose..My boat also came w/o a t-stat and I run year 'round. The engine wouldn't get warm at all and I didn't like the trial and terror with adjusting the supply valve manually so I installed a pressure regulator/by pass and a 160' tstat with two 1/4" holes on opposite sides of the spring. works great now...best of luck!
Does it hurt them to run them on the hose or something. Give details brother. :rollside:
It's not good on the pump unless you have some way to disconnect the pump from the motor. Pump has parts that need water lubrication that can only be provided by being submerged in water. Hose won't cut it.
If you disconnectthe pump you can run the motor on the hose. You want to tap the line for the hose after the pump, before the regulator. No need for a T-stat. You will hear lots of arguments for running the temp warmer, take a look at the guys running big power and you will see they are running water temps of 125-140 with 25lbs through the block. Remember- that is the water temp, not block temp. The water isn't in there long enough for the gauge to register blcok temp.
It's not good on the pump unless you have some way to disconnect the pump from the motor. Pump has parts that need water lubrication that can only be provided by being submerged in water. Hose won't cut it.
what he said...also, depending on your "rear bearing"..you may need water pressure to properly center the impeller. I think they call that "hydrostatic". Some guys can get away with it better than others. Mine doesn't have grease or oil on the rear and depends on water pressure for lube.
Also, Brendella raises a good point about big power..they change their oil all the time..we don't. Me thinks that engine/oil/water temp should be high enough to "boil out" the water and lighter hydrocarbon fractions that blow by the rings during combustion and are captured by the oil.
Today, at wot indicated temp was right at 190'F. Runs 160'F at idle. But how much time do you think you'll spend at wot? Prior to the T stat I thought the temp gauge was broken until hot summer time...only then did I get some temp on the gauge.
You're far north enough to need a t stat if you run in the winter at all. just my 2 cents.
Thanks. I just ordered the bypass kit from them.
HTP will take care of you, I live in WI and the water is cold most of the time too. I have never run a T-stat and just use the HTP regulator and a gate valve on my boats with no overheating problems at all. I have a oil temp gauge too and it never hits over 195 degrees oil temp.
I bought a thermostat kit from Rex Marine and it works perfectly. I'll never go back to anything else. Keeps my engine the same temp whether I'm idling or all out.
I would highly recommend it.
Mark
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...ermostat_1.jpg
Thanks for the tips guys. I am planning on taking the Sanger out on Sunday after I install the gate valve and place diverter that should be her by Friday and see how she runs.
Since a place diverter operates basicly the same as the trim on an outdrive and allows you to trim the jet nozzel up,should I see some speed increases with adding the diverter? Throwing the big rooster tail is cool and all but I would like to see some added speed as well from the diverter.
the diverter does act as trim for the jet..you'll see a speed increase due to a reduction of drag due to lifting the boat out of the water. Take your time in some smooth water and adjust the diverter by very small increments otherwise you'll be riding a pogo boat.
After you've had a little time on plane just bump the controller and you'll feel the boat's attitude change. At full "UP" position a significant portion of the jet's thrust is simply going to shoot the water up. This upward component actually slows the boat a bit.
When you're at full up position, run it down a bit and you'll feel the thrust push as the vertical thrust component is added to the horizontal. its kind of a rush.
the diverter does act as trim for the jet..you'll see a speed increase due to a reduction of drag due to lifting the boat out of the water. Take your time in some smooth water and adjust the diverter by very small increments otherwise you'll be riding a pogo boat.
After you've had a little time on plane just bump the controller and you'll feel the boat's attitude change. At full "UP" position a significant portion of the jet's thrust is simply going to shoot the water up. This upward component actually slows the boat a bit.
When you're at full up position, run it down a bit and you'll feel the thrust push as the vertical thrust component is added to the horizontal. its kind of a rush.
Thanks for the input. But since your feeling so generous in sharing info,I'm not gonna let you off the hook that easy.
Another thing I am thinking on adding to this boat is a droop snoot since they are relatively inexpensive. But I have heard it all depends on the hull as to whether or not I will see a speed increase. Would a 78 Sanger hull benefit from this or no?
The other thing that puzzles me about the snoot is that your lowering the jet further in the water so wouldn't that create more drag and slow you down?
As I said before,I am running a 32 Sunsation that does well over 100mph so I know how to make an offshore run,but I am finding out that none of those rules for offshores apply to a jet boat. Not even close.
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