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Thread: Ford 460 Heads

  1. #1
    Beavertim
    After reading many posts today, I have come to the conclusion that there are alot of very knowledgeable Ford powered boat owners out there, so I'm hoping someone can fill me in on whats in the heads I have on my 21 ft Eliminator. The casting number is D3VE-A2A. I'm wondering if the intake ports are the same as the CJ heads, what the valve sizes are, chamber volume, etc. The intake manifold is a DOCE 9425-C. I saw an identical one at the swap meet last weekend, and it looks like it had the larger (CJ) intake ports. I'm wondering if the D3VE-A2A heads are matched to the manifold (without removing the manifold).
    The exhaust ports still have all the bumps and notches in them I've read about in the posts. I plan on removing them. The engine has twin turbos on it, and I'm surprised the exhaust ports haven't been cleaned up! This also leads me to question the intake port matching.
    The carb is a 750 CFM Holley with Vac secondaries and a 0.50" lift 214 deg (at 0.050") duration cam. The engine turns about 5000 RPM at 8 psi boost. I don't know the speed, but the pump is a Dominator (don't know the impellor cut).
    I'm thinking the engine should wrap out a little higher than 5k. Does anyone out there have suggestions on the carburation and cam set-up? Thanks Tim

  2. #2
    fryzll
    Hey Beavertim, sounds like a nice boat. Im not to hip on turbos but I would think 5000 rpm would be plenty for a turbo motor because they make soo much torque in the lower RPM. If im not mistaken alot of turbo guys will run AA impellers bucause the motors produce enough torque at low RPM to do that with less HP. There are quite a few turbo guys around here that should be able to help you. A couple months ago in hot rod there was a Merc wagon (around a 59) that had a twin turbo 460 built w/ junkyard stuff (turbos, intercooler etc...) that made like 350 hp and 780 pounds of torque. now thats impressive to say the least. What kind of turbo setup is it?
    Chris

  3. #3
    mister460
    Hate to break it to you Beaver but ditch the D3 castings! The exhaust ports are not conducive to good flow. Even after removing the air injection knobs. The intake ports are also smaller than CJ but they flow pretty good. They are big chamber heads which is what you want with a blown setup. Find some of those D0CE heads or get ready to reshape the exhaust ports. I mean, that's if you want max use of your potential. And you do, don't you?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,920
    D3VE A2A are run of the mill low compression (large 94 cc chamber) 1973 and later heads. Pedestal mounted rocker arms and stock ports/valves. I'm running a set on mine right now that I got for free. You can pick em up all day long for next to nothing. They'd probably be a good head to use with the turbo due to the low compression ratio (guessing here). Typical for Fords, the exhaust side could use some porting though.

  5. #5
    FoMoCo
    I would stay with the heads you have unless you can afford race gas! with the DOVE Heads you would have almost a full point more compression, which is not cool for turbos! Also a turbo motor requiries a lot less head flow because the air is forced into the motor so changing the heads MIGHT yeald only a slight gain, I would go with a set of alluminum Edelbrock Heads with the bigger combustion chambers,they Flow really good and they also can disapate heat faster so you can run more boost without pigging!!!!! Thats just what I have learned since I own a turbocharged Car and a BBF in a Jet boat!
    HMMM maybe that could be my next motor 514 BBF intercooled twin turbo!!!!!!!!!

  6. #6
    058
    I also have a twin turbo 460 Ford with the D3VE-A2A heads. They do work good if they are the closed chamber type [quench heads] Install the bigger valves and clean out the exhaust ports and they should flow well enough to support the turbos. I run as much as 15 lbs of boost and as high as 7200 rpms. Do not use the DOVE heads unless you get pistons to keep the compresson ratio at about 8-8.5 to 1. but that isn't nessessary as the ports are all the same.

  7. #7
    fryzll
    Hey 058, just curious if you have any H/P and torque figures. Sounds like you should be up there w/ that much boost. i was also wondering how the boat sounds, is it fairly quiet with a cool wine when it spools up? I just like the look of 2 snails instead of a huffer on top http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif .
    Chris

  8. #8
    058
    Fryzll, So do I. Besides I have more experence with turbos than I do with blowers. The engine is quiet and doesn't have too much "turbo whine" I have never dynoed the engine but it turns a Casale V-drive with 37% gear and a 11.5 x 15 prop. Thats almost 9900 prop rpm. Whatever the HP figure is to do that, I don't know. Maybe some of the others here will have an idea. All I know its a blast to drive.

  9. #9
    Beavertim
    Hey 058 (and all),
    Thanks for the responses. Since my initial post, I have pulled the intake manifold to see if the intake ports were ground to match the manifold. They were not. The "Ford Performance" book recommends doing this, but I am a little leary of gringing away that much metal. Are yours port matched? Is it really worth doing? Also, what type of cam and carb setup are you running? My pistons are the stock low compression ones with the valleys in them, which I am glad to see. I'm planning on cleaning up the exhaust ports but am wondering if it's worth doing the intake ports. The 3/8 inch step in there can't be good for performance. Would a matched manifold be better than the stock cast iron one? Finally, how is your boost controlled? wastegates? Mine has pressure release valves downstream of the turbos that bleed air/fuel back into the carb after 8 psi is reached. Thanks Tim

  10. #10
    058
    Tim, That 3/8" step isn't good for flow but its beter to leave it alone as the material you will have to cut out of it to port match might lead to more problems than you have now. I run an old Offy Port-O-Sonic manifold that was pretty close as-is so I didn't do anything to it. The intake ports can always use a little help in the bowl area as do all heads. Just some smoothing and blending and install a set of 2.25" intakes with the seat opened to the outer edge of the valve for max. flow with the turbos. Exhaust should get the 1.75" valve and as much port work as you can stand, run a .090-.100" seat width for a cool running valve. Try to deepen the roof at the valve guide for more voluume and remove all the lumps and bumps and straighten the exhaust port as much as you can. Boost control? right foot. [I don't run a wastegate]

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